What was written 3 weeks ago: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7092398.stm

What was written tonight: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7164890.stm

http://www.economist.com/world/africa/displaystory.cfm?story_id=10328292

http://www.economist.com/opinion/displaystory.cfm?story_id=10328986

A colleague of mine wrote this in response to concerns about his safety:

"An uneasy calm has returned in Kisumu today with people walking around either buying food or assessing the damage caused.Most buildings in town have either been vandalized,burnt or both.
I was just in town trying to buy some food when the police started shooting at people.So am hiding out in the office for a while.

We don't know when calm will be restored if at all!
The opposition have called for a meeting on Thursday(3rd) at Uhuru Park in Nairobi so that they can swear themselves in as rightful winners of the election.The government has outlawed the meeting but the opposition is asking 1million people to turn up for the meeting.
One way or the other,am afraid all hell will break loose come Thursday."

Another link with updates about what's been going on in Western Kenya: http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-kenya24jan24,0,6610255.story?coll=la-home-center

An update from the Economist: http://www.economist.com/opinion/displaystory.cfm?story_id=10651817

On this trip, I feel very comfortable and at ease. I realized upon returning that there are many things that I missed about this place when I am away. In a way, it is like coming home. I feel a sense of contentment and joy. The livestock along the side of the road, the pit toilets, and the children pointing and screaming mzungu, are all expected.

Nakumat (the equivalent of Walmart smack dab in the middle of Kisumu):

Maasai in Nakumat (an interesting juxtaposition):

Thanksgiving dinner (mashed potatoes and all):

I've finally moved into the place where I will be staying for the rest of my time here. Each day after our arrival in Migori, there was some reason that we couldn't move in. First there was no gas, then there were not enough beds, then it was too dirty to move in. I began to worry that they were just trying to avoid having to show it to me until the last possible moment. Turns out the place is pretty nice and very close to where I've been staying the past several days. Still it was nice to be able to finally unpack. I'd been repacking my stuff every morning, so that I would be prepared to move whenever it became necessary.

Olivia, my flat-mate, and I made a makeshift living room setup so we could hangout outside our bedrooms.

We cooked plain white rice to celebrate being in our new flat.

On Wednesday, we went to Rongo, which is supposedly the most accessible site because it is located along the main road. This means that we can take public transportation, e.g. a matatu. So we crammed our usual 16 or 17 people in the vehicle and then along the way picked up a few more. At one point, we pulled over and a surprisingly large number of people alighted (as they say here). I noticed that the tout (the money collector and conductor) was actually giving these people additional money back – something I’ve never seen before. I put the pieces together a few moments later, when I was instructed to buckle my seatbelt, another event I’ve never witnessed before. We were approaching a police checkpoint. About 5 years ago the new president at the time had instated limits on the number of people to be carried in matatus and had additionally required that matatus be outfitted with enough seatbelts for every passenger. When I returned, I assumed that these rules were simply being ignored. In fact, rather than simply being ignored, these rules were being circumvented. Matatus had learned where the checkpoints were and made certain to appear as if they had been following the rules. Shortly after passing the checkpoint, we again began picking up passengers and filling the van far beyond its legal capacity.
Rongo district hospital:

We also met with the District Manager of Health (DMOH) for Rongo, which is a newly designated district. He expressed during his satisfaction with the work that FACES has been doing, but also that he would prefer programs that address the whole health of a person, rather than just focusing on one illness, such as HIV in our case. I guess the issue of horizontal versus vertical programs isn’t some topic we just debate about in classrooms. He cited an instance in which a child is prevented from acquiring HIV from his mother who is HIV positive, only to die of malaria before the age of five. Unfortunately, this stems from the realities of funding agencies, which often award grants based on proposals to address specific diseases. On a brighter note, we are in the process of rolling out a ‘food as medication’ program as studies have definitively and repeatedly shown that adequate nutrition is essential to good health – sometimes you have to wonder if research was really necessary to show this – I mean all I can say is duh.

I got some additional good news on Sunday that KEMRI, the institution we’re working with here in Kenya, finally approved our study, which was under ethical review. Still we don’t have final approval from the CDC, but apparently as long as we aren’t using a funding from the CDC, I can go forward with my research. Another sigh of relief.

Migori town:

Two views from the balcony of our flat.

More details to come later...

She returned eventually and explained that they had signed it over to another airline. Instead of flying on Kenya Airways, I would be flying with East African. Apparently, however, I gathered from some conversations in Swahili, there was no room on the flight and there was no way that my bags, which were supposed to be checked through with Kenya Airways, would make it. One of the clerks personally escorted me to the runway where the plane was waiting. As I was entering, I heard a man complaining that there were no more seats. I glanced at my boarding pass for the first time and relieved that my seat number was illegible (yes, it was handwritten). They eventually found me a seat, but my backpack had to be stowed in a different location. Needless to say, I wasn't excited to part with my few remaining possessions, but again what choice did I have.

I was very relieved to find someone (actually 3 people) waiting for me at the Kisumu airport; during the flight I had begun run through the possibilities of what I would do if there weren't someone there waiting or if I couldn't find them. I considered hiring a taxi, but realized I didn't have an address for where I was going. I then came to the realization that I didn't even really know where I need an address for as I had no idea where I was meant to go. Luckily when I arrived I didn't have to start down the line of my contingency plans.

I went to an ATM and got out some arbitrary amount of Kenyan shillings - at this point, I'm only vaguely familiar with the exchange rate and I have even less of an idea what my expenses will be and how much cash I need. Next, they took me over to the the flat where I'll be staying and it seems nice enough, although it looks like I'll be sleeping in the living room on a foam mattress on the floor. The fact that there's a refrigerator and allegedly running water were enough to make me happy. They tried to convince me that I need to rest, but I'm afraid that if I do, it will take longer for me to get adjusted to the time change. On top of that, I don't have any pajamas and with the daylight, the heat, and my nervous excitement, I don't think I'd be able to sleep anyway. My final ulterior motive was that I actually wanted to see the clinic today and meet some of the staff - I didn't want to be forgotten at the flat or have to find my way on my own to the clinic.

Now I'm at the FACES Clinic (http://www.faces-kenya.org/) where I got introduced to at least 25 people, all of whom I've already forgotten. My guide literally took me from room to room (interrupting patient visits) to meet all the staff. The clinic waiting area, which is outdoors, was very crowded. It's definitely a larger scale operation than I expected and seems to be relatively well equipped. They have a wireless internet connection here in the clinic - too bad I won't be living in Kisumu. I don't expect to find the same luxuries in Migori, three hours from here, but then again I don't really know what to expect at all, I guess we'll see.

Aunt Jill and I having lunch in Heathrow airport during my 9 hour layover - much to my surprise we were able to connect without the use of cellphones.

FACES clinic in Kisumu

The recent nuclear test performed by the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) has drawn the attention of the international community back to the ongoing struggles and affairs that have remained unresolved on the Korean peninsula. As a single event, the test was a critical catalyst to attract international attention to the DPRK, but more importantly, the incident represents a nadir to deteriorating diplomatic efforts with North Korea. For over a decade, the DPRK has negotiated with international parties over critical issues, including nuclear arms proliferation. The failure of these efforts in halting the development of nuclear weapons indicates an essential failure of diplomacy. As a result of these deteriorating diplomatic efforts, the DPRK has become increasingly isolated, antagonized, and neglected.

South Korea has also been a key player in diplomatic efforts with the DPRK. Ever since the cease-fire on July 27, 1953, the Korean peninsula has been split into two halves- the North and South. The lack of complete resolution following the Korean War accounts for the ongoing tension between the two governments. In the last decade, however, there have been promising steps towards peaceful resolution. On June 23, 2000, at a landmark summit involving the South Korean President Kim Dae Jung and Secretary General Kim Jung-Il of the DPRK, Koreans were given hope for peaceful resolution to lasting conflict. For the first time, eventual reunification of the two sides was considered a possibility. Growing support for reunification plans contributed to the formation of the Ministry of Unification of the South Korean government as well as its counterpart in the North. By improving communication and cultural exchange, the government agencies have strived to enhance the homogeneity of the two divergent groups in preparation for future reunification. Unfortunately, this budding relationship has been strained recently by the unified international front against the North Korean nuclear tests. Even South Korea has agreed to support sanctions against the North.
Yet another major party that has been deeply involved with the politics of the DPRK has been China. Koreans often describe the relationship between China and North Korea using the expression “Soon Mang Chi Han.� The expression is an analogy that represents North Korea as the lip protecting China’s teeth. In other words, North Korea is often portrayed as a buffer zone between South Korea (and its American presence) and mainland China. This benefit may, in part, explain the historical support by China of the military regime in North Korea. Especially during difficult periods in North Korean history, the Chinese have provided critical economic support for the DPRK. Just recently, however, Chinese policy towards North Korea has started to shift. Following the test launch of several missiles by North Korea, the Chinese government agreed to sign a UN treaty in response to the actions of North Korea. They have also agreed to sanctions in response to the nuclear weapons test. However, the shift in policy may have started much earlier. Back in April 2004, the Chinese suspended provision of oil and food to North Korea. At the time, 60-70% of such supplies came from mainland China, so the decision had a dramatic effect on the North. Regardless of the timing of this shift, the important point is that the Chinese government is providing less support for the regime in North Korea. Since China has such a crucial role in the economic stability of North Korea, the notable shift in support will have important consequences for stability in Pyongyang.
With all of this in mind, the diplomatic outlook is remarkably bleak. The international community has developed a unified front against the DPRK, and the sanctions imposed on the DPRK serve to further isolate North Korea from the outside world. By supporting sanctions, the governments of the United States, China, and South Korea have antagonized the North Korean regime, complicating subsequent political and diplomatic efforts that will be necessary to improve the situation. This strained relationship between political bodies presents a daunting challenge to effective diplomacy and suggests a possible role for grassroots efforts to improve relations and work towards resolution.

A potential source for such a grassroots movement may lie in a unique ethnographic feature common to the United States, China, South Korea, and North Korea: each has a significant population of Korean citizens. To the North Koreans and South Koreans who view Korean-Chinese and Korean-Americans as Diaspora, there is a profound sense of nationalism that crosses national and even political borders. With this sense of common heritage, Korean citizens in each of these countries will be critical players in bridging divides, improving relations, and meeting the immediate and future needs of the North Korean people.

It was an obvious statement but one that struck me at the time.

From this sentiment, we generated an idea to develop improved dialogue between Korean physicians across the globe. Through educational exchange and teamwork, Korean physicians from the North, the South, and from the United States would gain the opportunity to engage pressing health issues in a collegial spirit. It is only a thought at this point, and we are unsure how exactly it will materialize.

On a related note, I recently communicated with Jim Kim from Partners in Health, who may be interested in engaging the issue with us. With the help of other interested parties, these ideas will hopefully materialize into work that will be helpful to the North Korean people.

On my last day here in Korea, I met with Dr. John Linton at Severance Hospital of Yonsei University. Dr. Linton is a physician who was raised in South Korea and was the first Caucasian to be licensed as a physician in South Korea. Dr. Linton has made numerous trips into North Korea as a part of humanitarian efforts organized by the Eugene Bell Foundation in the United States. Although the support work of this physician and the organization has covered a broad range hitherto, of note recently have been efforts to address the escalating TB epidemic in North Korea.

As a veteran in the field of North Korean humanitarian aid, I met with him to discuss my hopes and aspirations in the field. The more I discussed with him, the more I realized how I wasn’t clear about my vision for working in this field. When asked the simple question, "What do you want to do?", I had no answer.

However, my conversation with Dr. Linton helped me to identify important questions I have to wrestle with as I contemplate further work in this area. Of these, one question I need to ask myself is whether I want to work with North Koreans outside of their country (in China and Korea) or with the North Koreans in their native country. Both populations have needs that need to be addressed, and I wonder which I should try to serve.

I would like to say that our conversation made everything clear, but quite the opposite, I am now more confused than I was before. The same can be said about my time here in South Korea the past few weeks: the more I have learned, the more confused I am about what to do. Despite my confusion, I am more motivated now more than before in wanting to do something. We’ll see what exactly that is when the time comes.

7.09.06

On my last day working with the NGO, I was invited to visit the apartment of North Korean family. The unit I visited was home for an older couple that had immigrated several years ago and had gotten married here in South Korea. The small apartment was on the 10th floor of a large apartment complex that houses a large number of North Koreans. The government owns units in these large apartment complexes and rents them out to North Korean migrants as they resettle in South Korea. These complexes provide a much-needed community for the North Koreans as they resettle in a foreign country.

I caught a glimpse of that community at work as I walked into the apartment today. As I came into the unit, I was invited by three older North Korean women who were huddled in a tight circle. They were old enough to be my grandmother, but had such energy and vibrancy as they chatted away with each other about just about anything and everything.

At one point, I remember chuckling to myself as they talked about how North Korean women decorate the interiors of their homes. They laughed as they remembered when they first picked up discarded furniture from the street. The furniture never matched, leaving the living rooms of these North Korean women a hodgepodge of clashing colors. To top it off, when the women finally had enough money to replace these used articles, they had to pay for the government to throw them out. One woman laughed as they told the others how she would avoid this fee by bashing up her old furniture and throwing it away in the regular trash.

For most of my time at the apartment, I observed the women as they conversed. I realized at that time just how important community is for North Koreans resettling in a foreign land. I was so thankful to have been invited to take part in it, although I sat in silence most of the time.

Eventually, however, my cover was blown, and they noticed that I was not joining in on their conversation. I was asked to speak up and was invited to ask questions to the women. At that point, I asked a simple question to the women gathered there:

"I know that in North Korean people are socialized to believe Americans are evil. Now that you are here in South Korea, what do you think of Americans? What do you think of me as I sit here before you?"

As the mood suddenly became very serious and contemplative, I realized that the women were preparing to give me an honest answer. Two of the women were very vocal in their response. They talked about how they have been learning more about the historical events surrounding the situation in Korea. As they learn more about the United States and its actions, they no longer think of Americans as the enemy. They also mentioned how they saw me as one of their own people. Although I am American by birth, I have a Korean ancestry. There was no denying that.

I did notice that not everyone was involved in the discussion, however. There was one woman in particular who never opened up to me from the time I stepped foot in the door. She never looked at me directly and didn’t speak to me. She didn’t answer my question and gave no input to what the others were saying. Perhaps she was not as prepared to accept me and to accept Americans.

As I left the apartment, I reflected more on the perceptions of North Koreans on Americans and on Korean-Americans, such as myself. Although the recent migrants have a better idea of the nature of their supporters across the seas in the States, the people of North Korea have no such knowledge. Whether I work with North Koreans in South Korea or in North Korea, I realize that accurate perception is critical. With all the confusing politics and propaganda circulating on both sides of the globe, this realization will be invaluable in my future endeavors with North Koreans.

When I walk down an empty street or an empty hallway and I pass someone, I can't help but greet them now. Likewise, if I bump into someone that I know, I feel like if I don't have at least a 10 minute conversation with them, I have been extremely rude. I find myself asking people over and over how they are, how their family is, how their summer's been, how's this and that and the other thing all are? I can imagine that it must sound repetitive and perhaps even nosy. This behavior may not sound that unusual to you, but this friendliness goes completely against my nature as an East Coaster.

~My initial instinct before stepping outside in the evening is to apply bug spray. As my friends and I walked outside to warm up the grille, I asked, aren't you guys going to put on bug spray? Before they could respond, I realized that bug bites here aren't as serious because there is no risk of malaria (although perhaps people should be more careful with west nile floating around).

~I was filling up my water bottle with ice cubes before heading to the gym, when I found myself ready to dump them out. I had to ask myself why I would do such an irrational thing (because one of the things I appreciate most about being back is nice cold water, straight from the tap). That's when I realized that we are advised against ice cubes in Tanzania because they are generally made from contaminated water.

~Similarly, I was really excited when I got to run my toothbrush under the faucet to clean off the toothpaste, although I flinched the first few times. I had accidentally washed my toothbrush in Tanzania a few times. I must say, it was really nice to have a clean, non-gummy toothbrush to use the next time I brushed my teeth.

~I went out for chinese food and at the end of the meal I was shocked to see that the oranges they brought out with the fortune cookies were actually orange. Oranges in Tanzania are green on the outside and sort of yellowish on the inside. Interesting the Swahili word for the fruit and color is still the same. Once, I asked one of my professors how she could tell oranges, lemons, and limes apart because they're all green. She found this very amusing; you look at the texture of the peel of course, she replied.

When I finally stopped my malaria meds (which I had been taking every day for the past 2.5 months), it finally hit me that I am home for good.